By our guest Jeremy Kilgour (2024)
Nestled at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, Georgia is often overlooked on the typical European travel itinerary. But make no mistake—this small but diverse country offers a breathtaking mix of landscapes, from the Black Sea to the soaring peaks of the Caucasus. For those seeking something different, Georgia delivers in every way.
Our group of four set out to explore Georgia’s wild beauty, knowing that the best way to experience it was with our own set of wheels. Given the rugged terrain and remote locations we wanted to visit, a four-wheel-drive camper was essential. We contacted Overlando Campers, a Tbilisi-based vehicle hire company specializing in off-road-ready campers. We booked the Kia Bongo with a rooftop tent, which came fully equipped with everything we needed—cooking gear, an auxiliary battery, a fridge, a shower, and plenty of storage space. With a quick and seamless pick-up process, the Overlando team made sure we were well-prepared to tackle Georgia’s most challenging roads.
From Tbilisi to the Black Sea
We began our journey in Tbilisi, wandering its charming old streets, visiting historic landmarks, and indulging in delicious Georgian cuisine. From there, we set off towards Batumi, making a few stops along the way. First up: Vardzia, an ancient cave city carved into the cliffs. That night, we camped atop the Zekari mountain pass, watching a sunset over the snow-capped Caucasus, including a glimpse of Mount Elbrus, Europe’s highest peak. Along the way, we encountered shepherds herding their flocks to higher pastures—a common and beautiful sight in the Georgian countryside.
Before reaching Batumi, we took a detour to the remote villages of Bakhmaro and Khulo. This drive was an adventure in itself—narrow dirt tracks winding through valleys, barely a sign of civilization apart from a few vehicles and shepherds. The scenery was straight out of a postcard: rolling green hills dotted with wildflowers, misty peaks in the distance, and free-roaming livestock.
Arriving in Batumi, we welcomed the warm coastal air. After a much-needed swim in the Black Sea, we spent the evening sampling local wines and craft beers at the city’s lively bars.
Into the Heart of the Caucasus
From the sea, we made our way back into the mountains, heading for Mestia and Ushguli, two of Georgia’s most famous highland villages. Surrounded by glaciers, rivers, and medieval watchtowers, these villages felt like a step back in time. In Ushguli, we stumbled upon a tiny movie theatre screening a film shot entirely in the village. Just beyond, we discovered a breathtaking valley framed by towering peaks and ancient glaciers, where we camped for the night under an impossibly starry sky.
Next on the itinerary was Zagaro Pass, a high-altitude route that truly put the Bongo to the test—and it handled it with ease. The remoteness of this area made it all the more special, with barely another vehicle in sight. We took a short hike to 3,100m, rewarded with panoramic views that stretched endlessly in every direction.
The next day we reached Truso Gorge, famous for its mineral springs and striking rock formations. The valley extends toward the Russian border, where an abandoned fortress looms over the landscape. The sense of isolation here was profound, making it one of the most memorable spots of our trip.
A Taste of Georgian Culture
No trip to Georgia is complete without experiencing its legendary wine culture. We had the pleasure of visiting a small family-run vineyard, where we tasted wines made using traditional qvevri fermentation methods. Paired with homemade Georgian dishes, it was a true highlight of our journey.
One of the country’s most iconic sights, Gergeti Trinity Church, was next. Perched high above Kazbegi, this historic church offers spectacular views of Mount Kazbek. Before reaching it, we made a stop in Gori to visit the Stalin Museum and explored Uplistsikhe, an ancient rock-hewn town dating back thousands of years.
The Ultimate Challenge: Abano & Obano Passes
As our trip neared its end, we finally received word that Abano Pass—one of the world’s most dangerous roads—had reopened after winter. Naturally, we had to take on the challenge. The pass, reaching 2,950m, is notorious for landslides, narrow switchbacks, and sheer drop-offs. It was hands down the toughest drive of the trip, but also one of the most rewarding.
Our destination: Omalo, the most remote village we visited. Tucked deep in Tusheti, the village is surrounded by vast alpine meadows and towering peaks. Time was against us, so we only spent a night before tackling Obano Pass on our way back—another demanding but exhilarating drive that the Bongo handled like a champ.
A Fitting Farewell
On our final night, we camped overlooking a vast valley, treated to a spectacular sunset followed by an electrifying lightning show. The next morning, we made our way back to Tbilisi, where we reluctantly returned the Bongo and wrapped up what had been an unforgettable adventure.
Trip Highlights
What we loved about Georgia: Affordable travel, friendly locals, safety, wild camping, unspoiled wilderness, incredible food, and of course—the trusty Kia Bongo.
Top Tips for Travelers:
- Expect gravel roads, river crossings, potholes, and wandering livestock—be prepared for rough conditions.
- A 4WD vehicle is essential, not just for off-roading but for handling unpredictable road conditions.
- Temperatures vary greatly—do your research before packing.
- Google Maps isn’t always reliable—download alternative navigation apps.
- Use Park4Night, iOverlander or similar apps for wild camping spots
For those seeking a true off-the-beaten-path adventure, Georgia delivers. And for anyone planning a self-drive trip, a reliable 4WD camper from Overlando Campers is the way to go. With landscapes ranging from alpine meadows to dramatic gorges, from historic villages to rugged mountain passes, Georgia is a road trip destination unlike any other.
Our adventure may be over for now—but Georgia, we’ll be back.
